54
Dis-moi ce qui tu manges, et je te dirai ce que tu es.
Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are.
Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, Physiologie du goût, 1825
What do you want for dinner?" asked Cedar, as they stumbled finally up from the shore in the gathering gloom. "We ought to have dinner, don't you think?"
"We should, I guess," admitted Annie, adding practically, "Can you handle it?"
"Oh yeah. Anything but pork."
She grimaced.
"Don't even think about it."
"Cornflakes."
"Say, what?"
"Yeah," he mused into reminiscent (or was it imaginative?) fantasy, "A nice bowl of fresh, crunchy, Kellogg's cornflakes. That would do nicely just about now."
"But you never touch them at home." Granola was already de rigueur among le tout Santa Cruz, if a touch déclassé among the macro-biotic and vegan sets, who shunned milk. As for cornflakes ... aside from the ingredients, the packaging was there to scorn, and the advertising, and the connotations, and ... well, Annie was shocked.
"But I could."
Live free and die.
"Try the railroad station." Annie's guiding principle of laisser-faire, or 'do your own thing' as it was generally known at the time, trumped any personal inclinations (always excepting the absolute extremes, like the livers of tortured geese or the flesh of abused baby calves). She was quite willing to be helpful. She didn't have to eat the stuff.
But why not? The great Mr John Harvey Kellogg was a convinced vegetarian, indeed a health-food nut of the first water. He is said to have developed his famous cereal in 1876 for reasons of both health and religion: he claimed that, as part of a balanced diet (can't you hear the pitch now?) his corn flakes would help to (wait for it) lower that hard-to-manage sex drive. Hmm. Try that one on MTV. On second thoughts, Annie's instincts may have been sound.
"But there isn't one." A railroad station, he meant. "Anyway, when they do have them, the milk's warm and the cereal's soggy."
Cedar was right, as Annie knew, but that won him no sympathy. If only she had understood the full complexity of the situation. It was true that, presumably under British guidance, Dr Kellogg's brilliant innovation had become a staple of the Indian Railway's menus. Careful of their variegated clientele, the authorities maintained separate establishments for vegetarians and carnivores, and tried to ensure that English children, Hindu saddhus and Muslim grandmothers had equal access to their dietary preferences. Alas, the prevailing conditions of technology and weather conspired to enforce certain adjustments, not all for the better.
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